Drink: We’ve come over all Continental
Spoil yourself in the afternoon by delving into the unexplored end of the optics…
Whilst your mum might forgo the sherry and get stuck into a couple of Martini and lemonades on “high days and holidays”, the vermouth optics are uncharted territory for most. And seeing as we typically drown them in cloying sweet fizz it’s unsurprising. Yet given the chance, vermouth proves itself as a keen, complex, refined drink.
UK Sommelier of the Year, Xavier Rousset of the Bristol Hotel du Vin, agrees: “They’re a perfect afternoon drink, not too heavy [around 13% alcohol by volume] and full of flavour, but they won’t overwhelm your palate before dinner. In Britain it has a reputation as an old person’s drink, but in France and on the Continent, vermouth is an everyday drink. To enjoy it properly and bring out the flavours, chill it in the fridge and drink it straight, with ice and zest of lemon, or perhaps some water or soda to open it up.”
‘Opening it up’ is key. Vermouth is aromatised table wine that has been infused with the many herbs and flowers found on the French and Italian foothills of the Alps. Quinine, wormwood, juniper, cloves, sandalwood, sage, orange peel and rose petals are common flavourings – although the exact recipes are a closely guarded secret. The French have traditionally produced lighter, drier varieties and the Italians sweeter, heavier ones, but virtually every country that produces wine also makes vermouth. And virtually every country regards it as a national treasure to be savoured by all – not just by dotty middle-aged women at Christmas.
Martini Extra Dry
The most heavily marketed brand is the least inspiring of the lot. However, drunk its own it’s not as harsh as you might expect, with a light, floral nose and a dry, delicate taste. An excellent base for a bone-dry Manhattan.
Martini Rosso
Coloured with caramel and possessing a formidable molasses-sweet smell, it should be drunk chilled to temper the sweetness. The bitter herbal aftertaste caused by the addition of wormwood could be construed by as mediciney, but go with it.
Martini Bianco
Not seen on bar shelves as often as its distinguished stable-mates, but the one most suited to our palettes. Not too dry, fruity, fresh and with a hint of (refined) sugar. When served with soda in a hi-ball glass, it’s more original, subtle and refreshing than a spritzer.
Noilly Prat
Very dry but very appealing. Fresh, clean, lemon tones and a brandy-like base make this a distinctive vermouth that’s also easy to drink. And, downing three or four of them over a long lunchbreak won’t leave you incapable in the office all afternoon. By the way, the ‘t’ is not silent.
Cinzano Bianco Original
Sweet, heavy and herbal, Cinzano Bianco is hard work. The wine base is virtually indistinguishable, and the heavy quinine aftertaste hangs around for longer than it’s welcome. Pass the lemonade.
Carpano Punt e Mes
Aged for two years, this Italian concoction has a distinctly herbal nose and an earthy taste, which probably won’t suit vermouth virgins. It’s heavy, with a bitter aftertaste, but has just enough sugar to take the edges off. Classy.
Lillet (blanc)
One of France’s finest vermouths, Lillet smells like a rich, fruity dessert wine and could be served as such, or perhaps in place of a liqueur. More of a ‘man’s drink’, less fussy than its shelf-mates and worth a try if you can find it.
Lillet (rouge)
Ideally you’d drink this cold, in a small tumbler with a splash of water or soda. On its own it’s a tad syrupy, but when opened up the layers of cherry, liquorice and Bordeaux wine are quite distinct.
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