LEARNING CURVES
Much kudos is attached to catching the 8.24 tram to the top of Rendezvous Mountain in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, USA. The masses have to wait behind the traps for the second tram at just before nine for a chance to get at the overnight snow, but the elite pupils of the Steep and Deep camp are able to launch themselves from Corbet’s Cabin as soon as the green “Mountain Open” sign flickers into life.
I found myself crammed into the creaky clifftop hut on the first day of the extreme skiing school with 46 advanced snow lovers and several scarlet-coated instructors, and quickly learned that those who are prepared to fling themselves down the most terrifying chutes on a mountain have no fear of introducing themselves. Within minutes I was deep in small talk with several of the thirty-something males that made up the majority of the group. Surprisingly, they seemed to be a fairly stable bunch, with not a manic eye between them and most wanted simply to: “Improve [their] skiing, jump Corbet’s Couloir [the resort’s most formidable run] and face some challenges.”
They’d come to the right place. The intensive Steep and Deep camps were started six years ago by world champion steep ski mountaineer, Doug Coombs, and have evolved into an unique, structured course run by the Jackson Hole Ski School. Chief instructor, Rich Lee, explains the structure of today’s camp: “We aim to take people into terrain that they wouldn’t usually get to, show people how to handle the mountain without getting into trouble and teach off-piste etiquette with an eye on safety.” Safety is indeed an important aspect of the four day camp and is drummed into the pupils: “There are dangerous rocks, cliffs and sheer drops in many of the places that we ski– as there are on all mountains – and there can be serious consequences if you start sliding. We tell people what they need to need to know to prevent themselves getting themselves in trouble in the first place, like not getting above others in chutes and preach safe technique and control.”
By no means is Steep and Deep a relaxing break on the slopes. Virgin pupils – two thirds of the class – are advised to “Walk a mile or two per day in the weeks running up to the course,” and only those with fairly decent control of their skis need apply. A written examination on personal ability and aggressiveness weeds out beginners and those lacking the fortitude to throw themselves down a unmapped powder chute, and on the first morning all pupils are invited to ski a 300 metres, moderately-pitched, ungroomed slope in front of the instructors. Lee explains: “People really need to be intermediate to strong intermediate skiers to get the most from the camp, but we cover up to super expert anddouble black diamond skiers so we’re looking at people’s their stance over their skis, their body position, control and turn completion.” The class is then split into groups of three or four and each is allotted an instructor.
As you would expect for US$675, the calibre of coaching is second to none. The leathery-skinned staff is made up of seasoned backwoodsmen with ‘résumés’ sprinkled with words like: ungroomed; chutes; powder and backcountry. Of the eight that regularly run the camps, three are Alaskan heli-ski guides, four are provisional examiners for the Professional Ski Instructors of America and the sole female coach, Jessica David, is according to the blurb: “a podium placed international free skier.” In addition, Lee explains, “We have specialist guides with us who give demonstrations on safety in the back country – many skiers carry a probe, a transceiver pack and a shovel but hardly any know how to use them properly. We also give a pit digging demonstration for avalanche awareness, and we teach people how to be aware of their environment as a whole.”
A close eye is kept on technique, control, balance, edging, accelerating out of a turn, and adopting a low, powerful stance – basically, fine tuning your skiing so that whatever a mogul may throw at you, you’ll stay upright. From day one the groups tackle the band of expert chutes that traverse the west side of the mountain at 9,000 feet, and day two is spent on the awesome Cheyenne and Laramie Bowls below. In the afternoons, a lot of time is spent kicking up the powder on the borders of Bridger Teton National Forest, before heading back to the near-deserted quads and chairs that stream out of Teton Village.
The curious pseudo-alpine resort is still in it’s infancy as a winter destination and the hotels and lodges are constantly extending and improving, ready for when the ski-in ski-out resort will start to reap winter rewards. But at present, the elk that saunter down to the village centre and obligingly pose for photo’s with a mouthful of a saplings from the hotels’ freshly landscaped gardens seem to be as tired of waiting for the tourist explosion as the local hotel staff. Nevertheless, the advantage of holidaying in Jackson is that you have the supporting infrastructure, fully stocked and fully staffed, without the hassle of queues for the lifts or crowds in the local cafes.
The Steep and Deep camp makes good use of these local facilities, meeting at Nick Wilson’s café every morning for a weather and mountain report, stopping for lunch at Solitude Cabin for lunch at 12.30 and bizarrely, commandeering the Recreation Centre for a night of Kayaking (“Some of the moves are very similar to skiing,” explains Lee). Although you have to organise your own accommodation – I stayed at the Best Western Inn – there is plenty of opportunity for group bonding in the evenings, with a programme of slideshows and videos, spa nights and dinners planned for those who want it. An awards night on Saturday is supposed to be the highlight of the week’s after ski entertainment, but I declined, claiming that I wanted to be up at eight on the final day to see if anyone would attempt an assault on the infamous Corbet’s Coulior.
At the turbulent entrance to Corbet’s, Jackson’s world famous signature chute, I spotted the ‘comedy’ moose hat of one of the course’s more visible students, Grant Moffat from Southern Ontario. From day one he stood out as one of the most proficient skiers, although he learned a lot from his stay: “That’s the thing about Steep and Deep; no matter how good you are, they push and push you on and on to better yourself – its exhausting. I wanted greater confidence and stamina on steep terrain and was finding it difficult to arrange that type of trip. But here, where the groups are small and the instructors are the best in the business, they were able to give me the attention I needed.” Despite having benefited from his schooling in Jackson, Moffat (35), wasn’t about to join the foolhardy few who were gingerly lowering themselves into the chute: “Even though I’d say that I’m now ten times more confident on the mountain, I’m not going to do that. That’s just crazy.”
STEEP AND DEEP QUICK TIPS
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Counter-turn
Use your feet and ankles to turn your skis uphill just prior to executing a downhill turn. Since the skis are continually turning on their edges, this is a smooth way of controlling your speed without resorting to hard edge-setting. -
Punch through powder
Initiate turns in difficult powder snow conditions by recreating a boxer’s uppercut action with your hands, arms and shoulders in the direction of the turn. Coordinate the movement with your normal extension so that the movement is more powerful. -
Spread your skis
Many powder skiers have their feet too close together. Widening your stance to around seven inches makes for a more dynamic, responsive position. -
Pre-Jump
A pre-jump, although hard work, can get you out of trouble when faced with particularly nasty moguls. Upon your approach, jump, lifting your ski tips, and land on the front of the mogul.
FACT BOX
Simeon’s trip to Jackson Hole was organised by the Ski Club of Great
Britain - 0845 45 807 80, www.skiclub.co.uk. Inghams offer a range of hotel and apartment packages to Jackson. Simeon stayed at the Lodge in Jackson Hole, prices start from £485 for 7 nights on a room only basis. Flights with United Airlines from London Heathrow - www.unitedairlines.co.uk. Flights are also available from regional airports. Contact Inghams on 020 8780 4433 or visit the web site at www.Inghams.co.uk. Membership to the Ski Club costs £48 for an individual and £69 for a family. Visit www.jacksonhole.com.
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